Florence in Summer: Heat, Calcio Storico and Long Evenings

Florence in summer is hot, lively in the evenings and busy all day. Planned well, it works. Planned like a spring trip, with a long outdoor walk at two in the afternoon, it is exhausting.

At a glance

• Weather: typical daytime highs are in the low 30s Celsius in July and August. Heatwaves push temperatures to 35°C or higher. The valley setting traps heat, and nights stay warm.
• Crowds: high, with day trippers and tour groups from morning to late afternoon.
• Best for: long evenings, festivals, travellers who can only come in school holidays and are happy to plan around the heat.
• Book ahead: timed museum slots, Duomo climbs and restaurants for the evening.

Planning around the heat

Treat the day as three parts.

1. Morning (8:00 to 11:00): outdoor sights and climbs, while the light is soft and the squares are quiet. The first slot at the Duomo dome climb is better than a midday one.
2. Midday to late afternoon (11:00 to 17:00): air-conditioned museums with booked slots, a long lunch and a rest. See the museums guide.
3. Evening (after 19:00): walks, viewpoints, aperitivo and dinner. The centre empties of day trippers, and the stone cools.

Carry a water bottle. Tap water in Florence is drinkable. Wear a hat, sunscreen and shoes that cope with hot stone, and keep a light scarf for churches, where shoulders and knees must be covered.

What is on

• Calcio Storico (June). A rough Renaissance football match between the city's four historic quarters, played on sand in Piazza Santa Croce. In 2026 the semifinals were on 13 and 14 June and the final on 24 June. Tickets go on sale shortly before each match.
• San Giovanni (24 June). The feast of Florence's patron saint is a city holiday. The evening ends with fireworks (the Fochi di San Giovanni) over the Arno.
• Open-air events. Concerts, cinema in courtyards and performances in the Roman theatre at Fiesole run through the summer. Check listings, because programmes change every year.
• Pitti Uomo. The menswear fair, held in June (and in January), fills hotels for a few days. Check its dates before you book.

August

Many Florentines leave in August, especially around Ferragosto on 15 August. Museums and the main sights stay open, and tourist-facing restaurants usually do too. Plenty of independent trattorias, wine bars and shops close for one to three weeks, and the closures hit residential districts such as the Oltrarno and San Frediano hardest. Check a place's own website or social page before you cross town for it, especially between about 10 and 20 August.

Where to be at sunset

Piazzale Michelangelo is the classic choice and the most crowded. For the same view with fewer people, walk on to San Miniato al Monte, or try the quieter terraces in our viewpoints guide. Then eat late, as Florentines do, and add a gelato on the way home. See the gelato guide and the aperitivo guide.

Escaping the heat

• Fiesole is a 20 to 30 minute bus ride from the centre and sits on a hill, so the air is cooler. It also has a Roman theatre. See Fiesole.
• Early-morning trains to Pisa, Lucca or Siena beat both the heat and the queues. See the day trips guide.
• Churches and cloisters stay cool inside. See the churches guide.

Is summer right for you?

Choose summer if the school calendar decides your dates, or if you want long evenings and the festivals. Expect to pay more and to rest in the afternoon. If heat is a problem, the shoulder months give the same city with much less effort. See Florence in autumn and Florence in spring.